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Anon
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Electrical Gremlin
Slightly frustrating as I've been trying to find time to work on the van, had a clear run today after brekkie and acheive nothing as I can't get the thing started.... and first time around I didn't have my multimeter.
Symptoms are (aside from not starting!).... battery happily at 12.6v .... pulled down to 8.3v as soon as ign is on.
Working down pulling fuses, the fuse for elec fuel pump, fuse 3, 4& 5 allow the battery to recover to above 9v... all 3 get it back to 10.5 or so.. altho the standalone battery voltage is gradually creeping down.
Lights unsurprisingly pull voltage down to below 6v.
Also bypassed main battery connection with jump leads straight to solenoid terminal & engine earth strap, similar readings.
Then worked down fuses measuring resistance to ground, all read totally open circuit apart from fuse 5 which was 8.3ohm.
Have come home now to do some head scratching and top up battery!
Any thoughts welcomed.
Ed.
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 Tue 05 Jun 2012 @ 16:59
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Anon
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If battery isn't flat then suspect poor connection/s at battery and, or, starter solenoid main terminal. Also check battery ground to chassis.
If they're ok then check bulkhead connector (between bonnet hinge and wing on left when viewed from under the bonnet).
Connector to go for has thick brown wire/s in its harness bundle.
Look for tarnished/corroded terminal/s in plug & socket & also check for socket terminal lower than others (i.e. pushed in towards cab).
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Tue 05 Jun 2012 @ 17:30
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Anon
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cheers... battery goes straight to trickle on the charger, so i figure it's good. i did wiggle the bulkhead connector but will have a better look... tomorrow!
have previously cleaned up the ground connections at both ends... may replace the recycled battery connections for good measure.
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Tue 05 Jun 2012 @ 17:44
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Anon
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Ok.. progress check:
Did what i've done before to prove out connections which is to put the battery on the ground under the engine & move the battery leads to connect directly to solenoid & engine earth strap.... same symptoms... drops from 12.6 to around 9v on ignition on, a combination of electric fuel pump & fuse 5 seem to account for this drop.
Then used jump leads off my car for a bit of a boost, voltage stable at 13.5v ish.... starts & runs ok.
Remove jump leads & voltage drops to <9v and ineitable stall.
Adjusted tension on alternator belt .. (needs replacing really.. on list!)... same happens.
Wiggled connector on back of alternator and hey presto, voltage when running is 14+ and stays running ok when jump leads removed.
Switch off and batt at 12.6v, ignition on and immediately back to 9v or less.
So I think I've eliminated flat battery / poor connections at either end
Bulkhead connector (top right) appeared fine (& dry).
Definitely seems related to electric fuel pump AND/OR fuse 5, not really much to check with the pump as it's just a relay & straight to the pump.
Am I right in thinking fuse 5 should be powering a long list of accesories ? Which I guess i'll have to trawl through & find/check in turn ?
Maybe some connection getting wet/waterlogged from recent weather ?
Any more thoughts welcomed...
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Sat 09 Jun 2012 @ 20:54
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Anon
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Where the voltmeter is wired to might be a clue.
In any event if fuse 5 is the problem area then have a close look at the fusebox itself (battery disconnected!).
Check the security of the bridge strip connecting fuses 3, 4, 5 & 6. Look for signs of melted plastic and, or, loose rivets, terminals or fuse clip/s. Also make sure that blade terminals & fuse clips are clean & bright. Try some new fuses in case one is a bit iffy even if they all seem ok.
Commonest fail point is the white wires end of fuse 3 - everything fed via the ignition switch hangs off the one rivet there & there doesn't need to be a short circuit for the plastic to melt. If the fusebox has started to melt then the best fix is replacement ...
Fuses
3 - Green wire supplies heater motor. Thinner white wire (un-fused) supplies the ignition system; thicker white wire is supply to fuses 3 to 6 from ignition switch.
4 - Usually post-factory ignition fed accessories.
5 - Thick green wire supplies turn signal, windshield wiper & wash, instruments, alternator & oil warning lamps, brake pedal travel (Code 051*), reverse lamps (Code 393*).
6 - Thin green wire supplies stop lamps.
* Factory installation if codes appear on Service Parts Identification plate.
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Sat 09 Jun 2012 @ 22:05
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Anon
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FLAT BATTERY
Just pocking my nose in but sounds to me that the battery is probably old or burnt out! could be the plates in the battery have warped and unable to hold charge, battery can be fully charged but will still fail. but to be honest beyond me 
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Sat 09 Jun 2012 @ 23:33
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Anon
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Thanks Jim... (& Phil) 
I do tend to have a habit of overanalysing these things.. next time i'll just post symptoms and stand back i think!
I don't have a spare battery so took it out of the picture completely today and just used my car battery direct through the jump leads.... and yup, no voltage drop on ignition on.
Alternator giving charge seems a little suspect too.... belt needs replacing but plug may also be causing issues.
But first.... a new battery then  *sigh*
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Sun 10 Jun 2012 @ 19:34
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Anon
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Heh. There's me thinking you'd tried another battery already ... 
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Sun 10 Jun 2012 @ 19:38
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Anon
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philbradshaw wrote:
Heh. There's me thinking you'd tried another battery already ...
Assume nothing
 
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Mon 11 Jun 2012 @ 08:27
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Anon
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Did a double check at work with a known load (big 48ohm resistor).. which should in theory only result in 1/4 Amp current draw.
Battery dropped from 12.6v to just over 10v.... resulting in one of our hardware experts declaring it "totally jiggered" (must be a technical term).
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Mon 11 Jun 2012 @ 21:33
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Anon
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new battery acquired today from excellent local motor place and all is apparently well.
not brave enough to start any of the other jobs as going away in less than a fortnight .. maybe after :P
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Sat 16 Jun 2012 @ 15:39
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