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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Water leak I have water leaking out when the engine is running and its dripping/running out from behind the belt. I'm guessing that this may be to do with the water pump. I had thought it was the radiator but that's actually fine. I'm also guessing i need to get a replacement pump so my question is do i need to source a Bedford water pump or is there something else i can obtain more easily? I am not even going to attempt changing that myself as looking at were i think it is i will have to remove parts to even get to it. Also i need to source a new strap that supports the petrol tank and i wont be welding that myself either but any help in where to get one would be appreciated.I have posted a video of my leak but the engine noise is loud so you may want to mute your volume 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/78094382@N04/6867816152/ ---------------------- |
 Sun 25 Mar 2012 @ 14:37
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Water pump is favourite. Two types of water pump: if the fan can be turned easily then it's the viscous coupling type; if not then it's the fixed fan type. FD/FE Victor pump will fit if the CF pulley (viscous coupling type) or pulley flange (fixed fan type) is pressed on & excess shaft length ground off. Other possibilities in order of likelihood - Water pump to bottom hose elbow hose split. Steel by-pass pipe to intake manifold corroded through. Cylinder head front core plug corroded through. Water pump body buckled, usually only after a serious freeze-up when the cylinder block core plugs either/both sides have pushed out. Much the same job for these as water pump replacement on Facelift/CF2 models: remove front panel first for best access, or remove radiator if bumper corner brackets inside wheel arches well rusted. ---------------------- |
Sun 25 Mar 2012 @ 14:56
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Thanks Phil i'm going to look at how to do it and im thinking why not how hard can it be , i will let you know when i have completely demolished the engine in my attempts to get at it 
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Tue 27 Mar 2012 @ 07:32
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
karrie wrote: ... how hard can it be ... The spanner work isn't so bad ... Removing the radiator and the plastic grille may be the less demanding way to go for a first time. Access to the front of the engine isn't as good as removing the front panel assembly with the radiator attached but there's fewer bolts & bits to keep track of as well as less weight involved. Looks like a viscous coupling fan in your photo of the front of the engine; a problem you could come up against is removing the viscous fan from the water pump. This needs a cranked spanner (36mm from memory) & a mallet to shock the coupling into turning (clockwise to remove - thread is left hand) after which it should spin off with the fan attached. Remove the complete air cleaner assembly as well or you'll end up cursing because it gets in the way. Remove the 2 9/16-inch AF bolts, detach the 2 large hoses from cleaner & the small pipe from the adaptor on the engine. ---------------------- |
Tue 27 Mar 2012 @ 08:39
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Is this what i need ? 260993712801 My fan turns fairly easily you can take a look below. http://www.flickr.com/photos/78094382@N04/7052876521/ Thanks |
Sat 07 Apr 2012 @ 12:38
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Your fan is the viscous coupling type. Pump looks like this - 
Ebay pump is fixed fan type; can swap CF fixed fan pulley for the Victor pulley but I'm not sure about the CF viscous fan pulley because the shaft diameters might be different. PS I've edited your Ebay link using the Item number. This stops long URLs going past page width. Also, for future reference, Ebay links ought to go in Ebay Adverts so that other sections don't get cluttered up with expired links. 
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Sat 07 Apr 2012 @ 14:36
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
so does that now mean in order to use an item number from ebay for desciptive purposes,you have to place said ad in ebay ads and post a link in cf questions to that instead? ---------------------- |
Sat 07 Apr 2012 @ 15:31
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Alex, it's a conundrum that's existed since I can remember. No Ebay links is in the Area Rules for CF Questions for the simple reason that Ebay ads terminate after a while leading to dead links. However, if someone needs an answer & all they can find to show is an Ebay link then the Rule doesn't work too well. Pmail is one way around the conundrum but then no-on else gets the benefit of avoiding buying wrong parts. ---------------------- |
Sat 07 Apr 2012 @ 16:32
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Ok thanks i will keep looking for the right type of pump. I got the front grill off easily but the radiator is a little more of a challenge as its fixed tight but im hoping to get a little help with this. I will take care with my links in future :) |
Sat 07 Apr 2012 @ 17:32
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Quinton Hazell number for the pump for viscous fan is QCP2698. Try your local motor factors; they might find a cross-reference. Radiator securing bolts should have 10mm heads; in fact all the front panel bolts & nuts are mm sizes. Engine nuts & bolts are inch sizes. ---------------------- |
Sat 07 Apr 2012 @ 18:26
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
I think i have located a pump but am going to try a few local places first before i buy one. So the Radiator is off and although it was more than a bit awkward i was prepared with my WD40 and a hammer to get the bottom bolts to turn as they were the worst. I was really pleased to have done it myself especially as i have a raging temperature and tonsillitis. However i didn't dare go any further until i was sure about what exactly i was going to undo next. I can see there is a large bolt to the left and under the fan and i wanted to make sure that was the one i am supposed to undo, i could see a slightly bigger one to the right and it was attached to what i think might be the starter motor. The cover behind the fan has a few screws in it and i can get them out without any trouble if that's what I'm supposed to do. If i undo the big bolt will that release the fan ? I cant see any other way to get the fan off. I have added my usual pictures so you can see what I'm talking about. As a second question i noticed that running under the fan is a corrugated type of plastic pipe or cover and it has a big gash in it , i have no idea what it is but wondered if i should be concerned about it , i have taken a picture of this too. I'm looking forward to the rest of this challenge and all you help with my constant questions is appreciated. I did try looking in my Manual but it wasn't much help. http://www.flickr.com/photos/78094382@N04/sets/72157629768032575/ |
Sun 08 Apr 2012 @ 16:34
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
The fan and coupling have to be removed as an assembly & this is best done with fanbelt still on to provide some drag. On the back of the coupling is a big nut (36mm if I remember correctly) that needs shocking clockwise to loosen the coupling hub from the water pump (nut & water pump threads are left hand). Draper 52582 viscous coupling spanner is designed for the job but anything that will fit that can be walloped with a mallet will do. As a last resort a chisel on the corners of the nut will work but this will chew the nut. Once the nut does free off the fan & coupling should spin off. Next, the alternator (lower right): avoid touching the wires out of the back of the alternator with spanners ... disconnect the battery earth cable to be sure of not causing short circuits. Slacken the alternator adjuster bolt in the slotted bar, the 9/16-inch head bolt securing the bar to the front of the engine and also the 2 nuts & bolts (1/2-inch AF) securing the alternator to its bracket on the side of the engine. Swing the alternator towards the engine so that the fan belt can be removed. Crankshaft pulley bolt: slacken using a 3/4-inch or 19mm ring spanner and a mallet. Once the bolt is out the pulley should pull off from the crankshaft. If it's stuck then WD-40 inside the pulley bore and a break for a brew while it soaks in should help; tap the pulley forwards from underneath until it can be wobbled & then drawn off by hand. Cambelt cover fixings - 
Lower left bolt head is 9/16-inch AF; the 3 nuts are 1/-2-inch AF. The bracket on the back, top right, might be missing but if it's present then it will be easier to undo the 7/16-inch AF bolt into the camshaft cover rather than mess with the self-tapping screw into the cambelt cover. Cover likely will resist being removed but it's pliable enough to yank at it until it comes away from the 3 studs on the front of the engine; once it's free, twist and lift the cover for the top to clear the pulleys & belt behind. Once the cover is off the water pump is accessible. Metal pipe into the top side of the pump needs detaching from the pump and also at the back of the engine (13/16-inch nuts) and if there's a clip to the thermostat cover about half way along the pipe then slacken that too. Before removing the 4 bolts securing the pump to the engine, loosen the threaded adaptor for the metal pipe; usually a long 3/4-inch ring spanner is enough (steadily increase pressure on spanner rather than yank at it & risk it slipping off). Also detach the short rubber hose and aluminium elbow; elbow is held to the front of the engine by a 7/16-inch head bolt. Pump now can be removed. Split convoluted plastic trunking under the front of the oil pan (sump) is for the wiring that goes to the alternator. ---------------------- |
Sun 08 Apr 2012 @ 18:20
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Thanks for all that i will let you know when i have managed to get it all out. My local Motor serve think they have a CF 2L water pump ( viscous type) from 1979-1986. They helpfully suggested i bring in my old one so they can check first. This is an interesting time for me as i am not someone who has lots of patience and always want to do everything yesterday but i find with this that i have as much patience as i need and even while i struggled with trying to get at that *** recessed nut i didn't once get annoyed or worse. I had to get underneath her to be able to see the nut at all and enjoyed/ endured the experience of rain mixed with oil dripping into my eyes and running down my face . Maybe i should look at the oil leak next. I disconnected the battery but had left the one spanner i needed to use on the alternator at home and as I'm still unwell gave up for the day. PS nut was removed using 32mm end of the spanner Proof below 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/78094382@N04/7061162265/ |
Mon 09 Apr 2012 @ 17:39
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
karrie wrote: My local Motor serve think they have a CF 2L water pump ( viscous type) from 1979-1986. CF 2-litre water pump to 1986 is a lot different; it's for the Opel upright engine (slant Vauxhall engine stopped production 1984). A work-around is to fit the fixed fan type; can rustle up pulley & fan & bolts (UNC, not metric) if need be. Meanwhile, can you measure the diameter of the shaft where it fits inside the boss for the viscous coupling? I could be wrong about shaft sizes being different & a Victor pump could be used after all. I had to get underneath her to be able to see the nut at all and enjoyed/ endured the experience of rain mixed with oil dripping into my eyes and running down my face . Standard issue when mending CFs outdoors.
Maybe i should look at the oil leak next. Or maybe not ... only worry if lots of oil pees out. PS nut was removed using 32mm end of the spanner Excellent feedback.
I thought the slant engine viscous coupling nut was smaller but I've not seen one for a bit (my CF has the Opel engine & coupling nut is 36mm). ---------------------- |
Mon 09 Apr 2012 @ 18:08
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Just a quick post before i drink myself into oblivion! Woop Woop take a look http://www.flickr.com/photos/78094382@N04/6931000422/in/photostream/ I am now convinced that the designer of this engine had a strange sense of humor. I did struggle with the alternator bolts , the front one was in no mood for loosening, and the back one was particularly unfunny when trying to get to it. In the end i called in the cavalry to help me , i needed someone to hold the nuts while i tried to turn the bolts. It wasn't easy by any stretch of the imagination but we got there. I rushed the old pump off to Motorserve but they couldn't supply one and were having problems finding one but they will try a few places for me on Monday. I wasn't sure what bit i was supposed to measure but if it was the gap that the fan came off of then the measurements are as follows - The inside gap is 1 1/2 cm the measurement from outside rim to outside rim is 2 cm. |
Sat 14 Apr 2012 @ 18:55
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Well done.
Where to measure is the hole inside the fan coupling boss - 
If the hole diameter is 5/8 inch (16 mm) then you could be lucky - check your pmail. ---------------------- |
Sat 14 Apr 2012 @ 20:57
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Thanks Phil , the thing is now i've actualy got started on doing something and seem to be making some progress i just want to do more but now i want a camper van as well . Trouble is annoying little things like work keep getting in the way of me spending as much time as i would like on the project lol
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Sun 15 Apr 2012 @ 12:00
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Heh. You've got the CF bug then.
One thing to remember - 
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Sun 15 Apr 2012 @ 12:26
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Karrie, just noticed your in Milton Keynes i live in Woburn Sands, i have a workshop full of cars and tackle nearly all things mechanical, i might be able to help you, give me a call on 07947 640505 ---------------------- |
Tue 17 Apr 2012 @ 01:20
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Thank you i will , i am very close by as the lorry is kept in Salford and i dont actaully live in Mk i just work there im based in Cranfield. |
Tue 17 Apr 2012 @ 07:06
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