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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Welding Having had a prod around the old van today I came across this (under the seat box):
and this (offside wheel arch) 
So the question is, how easy is mig welding for someone who's never done it before ? I am (relatively) happy to shell out for a decent welder and gas but wouldn't want to waste my money if I can't do a decent job to MOT standard. I've thought about one for years (and could have saved a fortune in MOT repairs if I'd have had one) and have also got my daughters cars to sort for her MOT (welding needed as well). I've had a good read of http://www.mig-welding.co.uk and understand the theory but how easy is it to pick up? Thanks |
 Sun 25 Mar 2012 @ 13:37
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Dennis Harvey wrote: I've had a good read of http://www.mig-welding.co.uk and understand the theory but how easy is it to pick up? Practice on clean steel first starting with 1mm thick sheet then work down to 5mm to find the best settings (current, wire thickness, feed rate) for butt, lap & edge welds joining similar & different thicknesses. Then practice on rusted steel, cleaned up, to get a feel of how scabby/thin is beyond welding with the machine you get. This will give you an idea of how far to cut back rusty areas & how much overlay of new steel is needed to span thin areas. Argon/CO2 usually makes the job easier & gives a better finish than CO2 alone. Either way, go for a commercial (BOC/Air Products etc.) bottle with an adaptor to fit the machine rather than keep paying out for throw-away gas cylinders. ---------------------- |
Sun 25 Mar 2012 @ 14:33
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Hi Dennis, I learned to weld the hard way to. pick it up quite well. It must sound like bacon cooking for best result’s Richard & Judith ---------------------- |
Sun 25 Mar 2012 @ 18:18
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
rich4you wrote: It must sound like bacon cooking for best result’s Good way of putting it. 
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Sun 25 Mar 2012 @ 19:48
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Thanks both. Richard, just out of interest, what welder did you go for ? |
Mon 26 Mar 2012 @ 13:30
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Hi Dennis. I went for the Clark mig welder 100EN Turbo. This is more for DIY than Professional use it can be used with or without gas. With gas is a beter weld. My sonin-law is a car body and fabricator. and when he uses it he says it is ok for small work. Richard ---------------------- |
Mon 26 Mar 2012 @ 19:50
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
I agree with Phil, practise first - lots and then do the vehicle. I found a good helmet helps as well. The type that change when you make the first spark - some of the classic car mags did reviews a while back and I chose one on that basis. Especially if welding in daylight you can lose sight of where you want to be with too much ambient light. Its just like holding a pen and making tiny little circular movements. Depending on whether you push or pull the weld it will look different too. Practise is the key though.
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Mon 26 Mar 2012 @ 20:04
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Hello Dennis, Something worth considering, a joggler tool. You might find it easier to weld a stepped joint rather than a butt joint. Rae & Ann ---------------------- |
Mon 26 Mar 2012 @ 20:16
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
it could be advisable to try and enrole for a short course at night colledge to learn the basics, I have been a welder aprox 30yrs and in the trade we always say you can train monkeys to mig weld. it is relativley the easiest form of welding but practice is esential. gas less mig is a cheaper way but results just dont look right. best of luck but as said only way is trial and error and most inportant cover any bare skin as skin soon becomes bright red and sore to touch through arc from the welding and ensure you dont expose your eyes or anyone's eyes to the arc (bright light) GOOD LUCK
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Mon 26 Mar 2012 @ 23:32
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
again, thanks for all the advice. Rae, if I use stepped joints does that mean the piece will need welding from underneath as well, as an overlap joint would ? |
Tue 27 Mar 2012 @ 07:03
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Dennis Harvey wrote: Rae, if I use stepped joints does that mean the piece will need welding from underneath as well Hello Dennis, That's a very good point: I would think not, just a good seam sealer. Certainly plug welds wouldn't go amiss. It would be interesting to see some opinions from the lads that know a bit about MOTs. Rae & Ann ---------------------- |
Tue 27 Mar 2012 @ 19:08
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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Regarding mot, It is essential that repairs to corroded areas are properly carried out. Only welding is acceptable for repairs to 'prescribed areas'. Suitable materials of appropriate gauge and thickness should be used for repairs so that - Any plating or welding extends to a sound part of a load bearing component, and - The repair must be virtually as strong as the original structure So only a continuous seam weld is acceptable for patch repairs, although spot welded joints are acceptable where they originally existed. Welded repairs to highly stressed components such as steering/suspension arms, rods, levers etc are not normally acceptable. ---------------------- |
Tue 27 Mar 2012 @ 22:46
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