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Anon
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won't start after winer
simple really, sounds like it could do with a good run to warm it up, have almost flattened battery trying to get it to start, spare is going aswell. any help or ideas, sounds like it's just ready to go.
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 Thu 02 Feb 2012 @ 13:49
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Anon
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its meant to be wont start after winter, its only been around three or four months.
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Thu 02 Feb 2012 @ 14:18
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Anon
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Petrol or diesel?
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Thu 02 Feb 2012 @ 14:33
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Anon
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petrol 2.3, cf 250
there shouldn't be anything wrong with it, the alternator is a bit old, I've got a spare for when it goes, but didn't think that would really effect, starting. I think it's a bit low on water, can't see any in radiator(also kept topping up with water so could probably do with some coolant) but again didn't think it would effect starting. Had the distributor cap off, but looks fine under, no damp or anything, everything should be fine.
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Thu 02 Feb 2012 @ 15:00
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Anon
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ok, after trying most of the day, it just started, i'll take the dog out now and let it run for a bit when I get back.
there is one other problem that I've just remembered, the lights don't always work. I put a new switch, on there last year and i think that fixed the problem, i don't remember having o=any other trouble with them, but what else could be wrong for lights to only work sometimes, just dip beam. I think it was the switch though.
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Thu 02 Feb 2012 @ 15:06
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Anon
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Could be the fuel system dried out with standing & the pump taking a while to fill the carburettor. Main thing is that it started so there can't be that much wrong.
Headlights not working could be the dip switch on the steering column. If the flasher works but dip/main switch seems iffy then the fault usually is the switch or its wiring.
Lights switch itself can be temperamental whether it's the early push-pull type or the later rocker type, the later one more so. Working the switch a number of times with a snap action can help clean mouldy contacts.
Fuses also can be a problem. 12- or 21-way fusebox?
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Thu 02 Feb 2012 @ 15:39
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Anon
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I have the early push/pull type switch and found that it would randomly go dark as I was driving along. Yikes! Wiggling the switch stalk seemed to fix it.
I removed the rear cowl from instrument panel, pulled off the contact block from the switch and gave everything a good clean. Seems to have worked.
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Sat 04 Feb 2012 @ 11:20
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Anon
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sounds like you have the thermal cut-out switch like I have- scary, innit, on a narrow country road?
Use it to run a relay for headlights and then you can have more powerful bulbs without the risk of unexpected darkness!
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Sat 04 Feb 2012 @ 12:51
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Anon
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Aha! thanks for that. I did wonder if that was what was happening. The headlamp bulbs have been upgraded by a previous owner. I guess that the power draw is tripping the cut out. It's a tricky one to suss out as if I just leave it running on the drive the lights seem to stay on so I thought it was probably a mechanical problem. I'll put it to a proper extended test at idle.
If it does turn out to be the cutout how did you bypass this?
thanks
Tony
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Sat 04 Feb 2012 @ 13:52
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Anon
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In the words of our own guru...
philbradshaw wrote:
Headlights pull switch with thermal trip can't cope with anything more than 60/40 pre-focus candles ... & often neither can the original dash wiring!
Fit 2 relays, 1 for dip & 1 for main, under the bonnet with a new supply from the starter solenoid (disconnect battery first!). Supply cable should be 28-strand minimum and MUST have a 30A line fuse. This will by-pass problems you're likely to have with the dash wiring & bulkhead connector terminals without needing to change the original pull switch.
Assuming your van is early enough not to have 12-fuse fusebox in the cab -
Under the bonnet, pick out blue+red (dip) & blue+white (main) near the bulkhead connector by the bonnet hinge (left side viewed from the front). Cut these cables then use the bulkhead ends for firing the relays and the other ends for supplying the headlights from the relays. If you've got pairs of blue+red & blue+white cables then only one of the bulkhead ends of each is needed for the relays; other ends should be joined together at the relays or you'll only get one headlamp working. Relays coils earth connections can be under mounting screws for the relays or relay sockets if used.
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Sat 04 Feb 2012 @ 14:43
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Anon
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And a caveat ...
If the van has a 12-way fusebox then a push-pull switch without a thermal trip should be installed.
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Sat 04 Feb 2012 @ 14:53
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Anon
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another thing that won't start after the winter is the cascade water heater. forget the lights there're all sorted.
but the water heater wont stay on. pump works and water womes out of the hot water tap, the gas works, everythings lights so there is gas(although I swear it's leaked over the winter, it was nearly full, now feels almost empty). but my heater and hob work and light don't seem low on gas. I turn on my 12v switch, turn on the water heater, it sounds it ticks for a moment, sounds like it lights, the give it a moment and the red no flame light comes on.
any ideas, can't be leaking, can't be blocked flame, it sounds like it lights so can't see why it won't stay lit, read something about anode rods not completely sure what they are as I've never taken a water heater apart. from what I understand it isn't those.
not even sure whether this is the right place to post, or to start new topic, but any help would be appreciated.
Tom
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Wed 15 Feb 2012 @ 12:51
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Anon
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Hi
I had this problem last winter and like you it sounded like it wanted to go but wouldn't. I ended up changing the fuel pump and it turned out that the float on the carburator was stuck but it was an easy fix.
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Wed 15 Feb 2012 @ 16:10
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